Read about our experience, cycling from Olinda to Fortaleza by gravel bike. Our tips on the nicest hotels, the best routes, challenges with low and high tide & the best beaches!

We did a 2.5 week bike packing trip, with 10 longer days (60‑185km) of cycling. We wanted to relax on the beach and explore the little towns so we took quite some days off. There is so much beauty on this route, so no need to rush! But if you want to do it faster, it’s for sure possible!

Olinda

Olinda is a small town just North of Recife. The historic town is absolutely stunning and every building, home and pousada makes you feel like you walk in a world full of art. This is one of the most iconic historic towns in Brazil. Many houses have bright colors and you could walk through the small streets all day just observing everything. No surprise it’s the home town of many artists & also one of the best carnivals in Brazil. We had planned to stay one night, but ended up staying three nights. In the evenings there is a food market up at Observatorio do Alto Sé and in the streets the locals play live traditional music.

Pousada:
We stayed at @pousadavillaolinda which is right in the old center. The interior is fantastic and the room we had (downstairs in the back) was decorated super nice. Not sure about the other rooms as we did not see them, but must be lovely as well. Breakfast was made fresh & the common area has a calm terrace where you can relax and read a book. All restaurants and sights are at walking distance.

Restaurants:
For lunch we would recommend @toemcasaolinda and for craft beers @cavalotecervejariapub Also there are many botecos/bodegas/pubs in the streets where you can mingle with the locals and have a great night out.

Sports:
If you like running ‑ you could go for a run along the boulevard at Olinda beach. In the evening you will find many people working out here & you can drink nice fresh coconut water afterwards. We first had a run/hike around town to explore the churches and see the streets of Olinda, but as it is quite hilly we went for a longer flat run along the beach.

Day 1: Olinda – Ilha de Itamaracá

On day one we cycled 62km to Ilha de Itamaracá. First along the beach in Olinda and in Maria Farinha we took a little boat to reach the PE‑014. From there we rode to Igarassu, a lovely old town ‑ definitely worth a visit! Ilha de Itamaracá we entered via the bridge and the northern part of the island we reached by another small boat from Ponta Jaguaribe to bring us across the bay.

Pousadas:
There are quite a few pousadas on the island. The most touristic area is the Southern part, but you can also find some in the center and the North. This was the only night it was hard for us to find a place to sleep. We arrived late and the first pousada we checked was full (work from home during lockdown) and the second and third one were gone or closed. So if you do not have a tent, maybe make sure to call first and book something. However, it was our luck that we were introduced to @nadilson_silva who is a Mountainbiker. He is planning to open his own “bike‑pousada” on the island. He lives in a very calm place & can show you the nice trails on the island. Check out @trilhamaraca and write a message to see if he is already open/able to host you.

Boat off the island:
There is not a consistent boat service off the island to Ponta do Funil when it rains, so it’s good to have a number at hand or to ask someone from the island to arrange it for you. Nadilson has the number and also showed us the way to Pontal de Itamaraca (the beach where to boat leaves) which is not super easy to find.

Restaurants:
There are not many options on the island. Some “lanchonetes” in the main part of the island, but it would be good to check beforehand or check with your host what the food options are.

Sports:
When we were at the island the weather was bad. Which rarely happens multiple days in a row. But the beaches are white and beautiful when it’s sunny and we are sure you could go for a swim. The island is also perfect for trail running and mountain biking. Nadilson will be able to tell you all about the best trails or even show you.

Day 2: Ilha de Itamaracá – Jacumã

With the kind help of @nadilson_silva we managed to make our way to Jacumã. After the first little boat we took a slightly bigger ferry from Carne de Vaca to Pontinhas, during this crossing you also cross to the next state ‑ Paraíba. We continues cycling by the coast to Pitimbu and then rode the endless steep up and downs of the PB‑008 to Jacumã.

You will pass beautiful beaches. It would definitely be worth spending a night around Praia Bela or Praia de Tambaba. You can also do a tour of the area by bike without the bags. To reach the beaches there is always a very steep downhill, which means a very steep uphill on the way back.

When approaching the town of Jacumã make sure not to miss Mirante Dedo de Deus, you can reach it by bike from the main road, about 5km before the town. This is the rock you see in the video.

Pousada:
We stayed at @pousadabrisamarine. The beds and pillows are so super comfortable! And the breakfast was great. This pousada is owned by a very friendly family and we really had a great time here. There is a swimming pool and you can walk to Praia do amor ‑ which is about 15 minutes.

Restaurants:
In the town are many options for good food. Bakeries, Acai, pizza, supermarkets. Very easy to find something to eat here.

Sports:
Swimming, surfing, mountain biking, running… you could do anything around here. You could even run from Praia do Amor to Praia de Coqueirinho by beach when it’s low tide.

Day 3: Jacumã – Lucena

This day we cycled 64km. We first passed the city of João Pessoa which has a beautiful cycling path. Be sure to check the Cabo Branco Lighthouse, which is the most eastern point of the Americas.

From Ponta de Matos to Costinha we took a big ferry, and be aware here that they only accept cash!
We had planned to cycle all the way by the coast to Pipa. When crossing from Lucena to Campina there is the option to cross via the beach Praia do Miriri. But this is only possible when it is low tide and probably you will have to walk/carry you bike for some parts.

The other option is to ride back to the BR‑101 via PB‑025. This is what we decided to do the next morning. !

Lucena is another lovely beach town but we did not really have the chance to explore because of the heavy rain.

Pousada:
We stayed at Pousada Solar de Lucena, which is very close to the beach. It seriously rained non‑stop during the afternoon so we relaxed in the room. We decided to leave around sunrise the next morning & the lady running the pousada arranged we could have very early breakfast in the room.

Restaurants:
There are many options for beach restaurants and pizza. From our time at the coast we learned that fresh seafood is always the best option!

Day 4: Lucena – Pipa

A 148km ride with lots and lots of hills brought us to Pipa. When riding from Lucena to the highway there are also some shortcuts through the sugar cane fields. But these roads are only accessible by bike when it is dry, otherwise they turn into mud pools!

We cycled via the BR‑101 to Barra do Cunhaú. On the way we crossed states to Rio Grande do Norte. When leaving the highway the road turns into a beautiful small road and afterwards cycling by the beach was stunning
The ride to Pipa was great. Good roads, not to steep and beautiful beaches. There is one small river crossing which you could probably walk with low‑tide. We did not have cash at hand and paid with a bar of chocolate.

When we arrived in busy Pipa we found the best pousada @recantodeibiza In the middle of the center but very calm and with a beautiful design.

Pipa has beautiful beaches and some of the best restaurants. The beach you should not miss is Praia dos Golfinhos, where we literally swam with the dolphins just meters of the shore. When you stay here a bit longer it’s for sure worth to cycle to Tibau do Sul and check the calm beaches and views on the way.

Pousada:
@recantodeibiza is simply the most amazing place, we could have stayed here for weeks. The place is so well designed by Marcelo, who has such a great personality and warm heart. The rooms either have a kitchen or you can use the beautiful outdoor kitchen.

Restaurants:
So many options here! The best dinner we had at @chezmarilia.pipa the food was delicious and the service the absolute best! We also loved the fish at @restaurante_macoco Pipa has over 600 hotels and restaurants, so be prepared for an overkill of choices.
When bars are open again it’s definitely worth to have a nice party night at Agora Hotel and Lounge bar.

Sports:
Horse riding @gaiapipacamping If you love horse riding this is the place to do it! Either for beginners or very advanced riders the horses are super well trained and taken care of. In the town it’s not so easy to book a tour so best is to write them directly. It’s fantastic!
Swimming, surfing, running and cycling is also perfect in this town

Day 5: Pipa – Cotovelo

A 148km ride with lots and lots of hills brought us to Pipa. When riding from Lucena to the highway there are also some shortcuts through the sugar cane fields. But these roads are only accessible by bike when it is dry, otherwise they turn into mud pools!

We cycled via the BR‑101 to Barra do Cunhaú. On the way we crossed states to Rio Grande do Norte. When leaving the highway the road turns into a beautiful small road and afterwards cycling by the beach was stunning
The ride to Pipa was great. Good roads, not to steep and beautiful beaches. There is one small river crossing which you could probably walk with low‑tide. We did not have cash at hand and paid with a bar of chocolate.

When we arrived in busy Pipa we found the best pousada @recantodeibiza In the middle of the center but very calm and with a beautiful design.

Pipa has beautiful beaches and some of the best restaurants. The beach you should not miss is Praia dos Golfinhos, where we literally swam with the dolphins just meters of the shore. When you stay here a bit longer it’s for sure worth to cycle to Tibau do Sul and check the calm beaches and views on the way.

Pousada:
@recantodeibiza is simply the most amazing place, we could have stayed here for weeks. The place is so well designed by Marcelo, who has such a great personality and warm heart. The rooms either have a kitchen or you can use the beautiful outdoor kitchen.

Restaurants:
So many options here! The best dinner we had at @chezmarilia.pipa the food was delicious and the service the absolute best! We also loved the fish at @restaurante_macoco Pipa has over 600 hotels and restaurants, so be prepared for an overkill of choices.
When bars are open again it’s definitely worth to have a nice party night at Agora Hotel and Lounge bar.

Sports:
Horse riding @gaiapipacamping If you love horse riding this is the place to do it! Either for beginners or very advanced riders the horses are super well trained and taken care of. In the town it’s not so easy to book a tour so best is to write them directly. It’s fantastic!
Swimming, surfing, running and cycling is also perfect in this town.

Day 6: Cotovelo – Marco Zero/Cajueiro

Very early morning we left Cotovelo to Sao Miguel do Gostoso. We first passed the big city Natal, where you can probably find good coffee, but all was closed the day we passed. After passing Natal, the view back is really nice with the city in the background.

After we crossed the big bridge leaving Natal we cycled until Maracajaú by the beach. There is one very small boat crossing. The last 5km before Maracajaú are sand/gravel and not super easy to ride but for sure doable. This town would also be a good option to spend one night, it’s very calm and the beach is beautiful.

We decided to continue and made our way back to the BR‑101 and cycle to Marco Zero. This part is so cool to ride, because there is almost no traffic but the road is wide and perfect. There are people who cycle all the way from South to North Brazil via the coast on the 101. The total length of the road is 4765km. At the beginning of the highway in Rio Grande do Norte is Marco Zero. The highway literally begins (or ends) here at the beach.

There is a lovely restaurant here @restaurantemarcozero. The owners recently opened the place and make a lot of effort taking care of their guests.

The beach here is the most amazing place. It feels like there is nobody else around. And you can take a nice 30min bike to the black and white striped lighthouse. It was so nice that we decided to stay here one night instead and cycling to São Miguel do Gostoso.

Pousada:
We camped on the beach in front of the restaurant. This was possible as there were no guests that evening, but it’s not an official place for camping. A couple hundreds meters down the beach towards the lighthouse is a very nice pousada @paraisodobrasilrestaurante This place would definitely be worth a nights stay. In the town Cajueiro, 2km from Marco Zero, are also pousadas and the beach is a bit more lively with fisherman and surfers. Also better for swimming as you are in the bay. Totally a wonderful place!

Restaurants:
Definitely recommend @restaurantemarcozero But the town probably has more options as well. And also the pousada on the beach.

Day 7: Cajueiro – São Miguel do Gostoso

It was only an 18km ride from Marco Zero to São Miguel do Gostoso. And wow what can we say about São Miguel. It is a small paradise. One of the best kite surf spots along the coast in Brazil (so we heard, we do not kite ourselves) And you will for sure notice the strong wind. Which is very welcome in this heat! Sao Miguel is a very welcoming town with some of the best restaurants and fantastic craft beer. The beach is wide and endless long.

Apparently there is a very famous beach 7km north, which we did not know. But looking at the pictures it’s worth a visit for sure!

Pousadas:
So much choice here, but we were lucky to run into the owner of @napraiabrasilpousada He showed us two of his pousadas and we ended up having two fantastic quiet and comfortable nights. Some of the pousadas are more outside of the center and look fantastic! But when traveling by bike maybe not the easiest option.

Restaurants:
Avenue Enseada das Baleias only has good options. We fell in love both with the beer and the owners of @gostosobeer.taphouse We had dinner at @restauranteborogodo and this was one of the dinners where we literally wanted to lick our plates. But we have learned this is impolite ??‍♀️
@ojardimdoaerido serves delicious chevice and Mexican food and is also open during the day. Honestly all restaurants are of top quality.
We were advised that @lapepita_soamigueldogostoso is authentic Italian and delicious. We did not have the chance to try but will next time.
For sweets @gostoseria_saomiguel is the best You have to try the churro flavored brigaderos. They are to die for.

Sports:
Here you can do everything! Horse riding, running, swimming kite and wind surfing, beach tennis (dutch trainer)… and in the evening, right before sunrise, all the kids come to the beach to play football, beach volley and foot volley.

Day 8: São Miguel do Gostoso – Pendencias

Day 9: Pendencias – Canoa Quebrada

The ride to Canoa was memorable and in hindsight we should have stayed at Praia Rosada instead of Pendencias.

The first part of the 184km ride led us along many salt lakes, towards the beach. We were unlucky that at some point the street was fully blocked by sand dunes. Best would be to stop a car before you turn left prior to Porto do Mangue and ask for the status of the road. If the road is covered it is better to cycle over the beach (again check the tides!) after Porto do Mangue. We now took the car‑detour and walked 4km through very soft sand.

After the dunes you reach a very small fisher town called Praia do Rosada and the people here are just fantastic. We stopped at what we thought was a small restaurant to buy some water. We also asked if they had some coffee. We got coffee and breakfast ‑ couscous, fried fish and steak… we talked with the group of people who got bigger and bigger. We were invited to camp there and stay a while longer. Unfortunately we could not as we would meet friends in Canoa but this is one of these fantastic places we actually wanted to stay. When we wanted to pay they would not accept any of our money. And later we realized it was not a small restaurant but someones very welcoming home. The people in the North East ?

We rode along the coast and passed many nice towns, of which most have cobblestones and its hard to cycle through. Also the heat was killing from 12:00 onwards. And it’s very windy so if you have wind from the front this can be a hard ride. Arriving in Canoa we had a beer and picked a pousada.

Pousada:
Long Beach is were we stayed. It’s a very nice and even has a pool big enough for lap swimming. Another pousada which looked very nice is @vilacanoa which has a Dutch owner.

Restaurants:
Also here are many restaurants! One hidden gem which is quite hard to find is @onainrestaurante It has a fantastic view and the prices are way better than the ones on the beach.

Sports:
This beach is fantastic for running! And when the tides are changing you have some sandbanks which create a natural pool, which is perfect for swimming. The most popular sports are for sure (kite)surfing and paragliding.

Day 10: Canoa Quebrada – Fortaleza

The 147km ride form Canoa to Fortaleza was very nice, especially because we had wind in the back. When riding a mountain bike or when wanting an extra challenge, it’s also possible to ride over the beach.
We decided to ride all the way on the highway. Which is perfectly fine as it has two lanes and a hard shoulder. This was the only ride we did with an average of above 30km per hour. But also the only ride without the luggage, because one of our friends took this by car to Fortaleza.

When arriving in Fortaleza be sure you know where to go and be careful cycling through the city. It’s probably safest to stay along the beach and not cycle into the center. Especially when you stop the bike to check your phone etc. you might put yourself in a risky situation. So do this at a restaurant, gas station etc. and best is to keep moving and do not arrive in the dark. Of course there is a big chance that nothing happens, but we also heard too many stories of sport cyclists from who the bike was stolen right from their hands.

Pousadas:
As any big city Fortaleza has many hotels and pousadas. A very nice area to stay is Praia de Iracema. From here you can also easily take an Uber into the city. Our friend @anamenescal has a very nice Air Bnb. Located more outside the center and close to the beach.

Restaurants:
When we were there the city was in full lockdown but Fortaleza is know for its delicious crab. Every Thursday is crab night & you should 100% try it out. And of course beyond that you can eat anything you like in this city. Options enough!

Sports:
Fortaleza has a huge triathlon community. Early morning and especially in the weekend you will find groups of cyclists on the road.
For swimming Praia de Iracema is one of the best beaches.

If you need some maintenance done on your bike @cpbikes is the place to go. They also packed our bikes for the flight back to São Paulo. And when you are in the shop you will be mesmerized by the amount of super high end bikes the triathlon community in Fortaleza rides… We hope you liked our blog and if you have any questions or need some tips if you plan to do the same trip – we are more than happy to help!